Picturesque Atiu has only a small, shallow lagoon and numerous pretty, sandy beaches. One of the fascinating aspects, which is a recurrent theme through much of the southern based islands, the fossilised coral limestone caves filled with stalactites and stalagmites.
One in particular, the Anatakitaki Cave, is inhabited by tiny kopeka birds which navigate in the dark using sonar, like bats. For the visitors, (particularly the men), Atiu boasts an unusual event - the esoteric the "tumunu" or bush beer party.
Officially illegal under church structures and banned ever since the missionaries discovered what the natives were up to, the tumunu principally involves a gathering of the men, ending with a hangover (in more senses than one) from the old-time kava ceremonies so detested by the missionaries.
However, the tumunus have survived and invitations can be arranged for visiting enthusiasts. Another not-to-be missed place to visit is the home of the exquisite coffee mill. This export is sent all around the world and if you like coffee, this is a must-do.
Atiu is a lively place to visit for active travellers who enjoy scenery and walking, surrounded by a reef from which rise six-metre cliffs of fossilised coral forming a mile-wide ring around the island.
If you are looking for easily accessible beaches on Atiu, they are few and far between. To reach them one has to head off the road which circles the island, but it is well worth the effort. They are small, clean and nearly always deserted. The reef is very close and in a big swell, swimming in the narrow lagoon is exhilarating.
One has to take care to avoid being pushed against the coral because it is easy to get infections from scratches from live coral. The low swampy and very fertile land bears taro plantations, marshes and a lake, Atiuans also grows bananas, citrus fruits, pawpaws, breadfruit and coconuts.
The original name of the island was Enuamanu, meaning the island of insects and animals, although there is some dispute over whether 'animals' includes 'insects'. The Atiuans call themselves 'worms of Enuamanu' because they were born on Atiu and hope to be buried there.
There was once a custom on Atiu similar to that of New Zealand Maori of burying a newborn child's placenta under a newly planted tree. This is the origin of the Atiuan saying: "We come from the land and go back to the land."
The Atiuans were a fierce, cannibalistic warrior people and before the arrival of the missionaries, relished making war on their neighbours on Mauke and Mitiaro, slaughtering and eating significant numbers of them. In terms of European sighting, Captain Cook first noted the island's existence on March 31 1777.
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